# What is lyocell (TENCEL) and how do you care for it? | The Fabric Files

Source: https://thefabricfiles.com/blog/2026-09-25-lyocell-tencel-care-guide.html

2026-09-25 - The Fabric Files


Lyocell is a regenerated cellulose fiber made from wood pulp, usually eucalyptus, beech, or spruce. TENCEL is the best-known brand name, owned by the Austrian company Lenzing, and it has become shorthand for the whole fiber the way Kleenex stands for tissues. The fabric is soft like a cotton-silk blend, strong when wet (unlike rayon), and drapes well, which is why it shows up in everything from denim blends to bedsheets.

## How lyocell differs from rayon and viscose

Lyocell, rayon, and viscose all start from wood pulp, but the chemistry differs. Lyocell is made in a closed-loop process that recovers almost all of the solvent, which is why it is marketed as the lower-impact option. More practically for you, lyocell fibers are stronger than standard viscose, especially when wet, and they resist the fibrillation that makes cheap rayon pill and go fuzzy. If a label says "100% lyocell," expect better durability than a "100% viscose" garment at a similar price.

## What lyocell feels like and why it wrinkles less than linen

The fiber is smooth and round in cross-section, which gives it a cool hand feel and a subtle sheen. It absorbs moisture well, so it breathes in heat, but it releases wrinkles better than linen because the fibers are more elastic. A lyocell shirt will still crease if you ball it up, but hanging it in a steamy bathroom usually relaxes the wrinkles out. Blends are common: lyocell with cotton adds softness, with linen adds structure, with elastane adds stretch.

## How to wash lyocell without ruining it

Wash cold or warm, never hot, on a gentle cycle, and turn garments inside out. The fiber's weakness is mechanical: heat plus agitation breaks the surface fibers and creates the pilling and roughness that people blame on "cheap TENCEL." Use a mild detergent and skip fabric softener, which coats the fibers and reduces the moisture management you paid for. For hand-wash-only pieces, lukewarm water and a five-minute soak are enough.

## Drying: the step most people get wrong

Line dry or tumble on the lowest heat setting, and pull garments out slightly damp. High dryer heat is the fastest way to shorten a lyocell garment's life: it weakens the fibers and sets in wrinkles that are hard to press out. If you must use a dryer, use a cool cycle and remove items promptly. Hanging wet lyocell is fine, but reshape knit pieces flat so they do not stretch at the shoulders.

## Ironing and stain treatment

Iron on low to medium heat, inside out, preferably with a press cloth. High heat can glaze the surface and leave a permanent shine. For stains, treat promptly with cool water and a dab of mild detergent; hot water sets protein stains in cellulose fibers. Avoid chlorine bleach entirely, it degrades the fiber, and use oxygen-based alternatives if you need to brighten whites.

## When lyocell is worth paying for

Lyocell earns its price in pieces where drape, coolness, and wrinkle resistance matter: shirts, dresses, wide-leg trousers, and summer layers. It is less compelling in heavy-duty pieces where cotton or wool would serve better. Check the blend percentage on the label: a "lyocell blend" that is 8 percent lyocell is marketing, not material science. Above 40 percent, you will actually feel the fiber's properties.

## Frequently asked questions

### Is gabardine waterproof?

It is water resistant, not waterproof. The tight weave sheds light rain, but steady heavy rain will eventually soak through unless the fabric is coated.

### What is gabardine made from?

Traditionally worsted wool. Cotton gabardine is common in trench coats, and modern versions may blend in polyester.

### Why do trench coats use gabardine?

Because it blocks wind, sheds rain, drapes well, and holds a tailored shape. Few fabrics do all four at once.